Having recently experienced near burger perfection at Patty&Bun I thought I’d give newly opened BRGR.CO a go. It’s in a pretty good spot right in the heart of Wardour Street in Soho and as I walked in and smelt the waft of smokey grilled beef, things were looking positive.
Sadly however it went downhill from there. The first of two small dining rooms had an open kitchen and quite a buzzy atmosphere but the one in which we were seated lacked any personality whatsoever. The tables were minuscule and the wooden chairs were uncomfortable – it wasn’t the sort of place we wanted to spend very long.
The menu, for a burger place, was rather large and a little difficult to follow. I decided to keep it simple and order the 6oz “tender blend” burger (£6.95) with vintage cheddar cheese (£0.95). The burger looked a little flat but the glazed sweet brioche bun looked quite appealing. The burger, or brgr, was cooked medium rare as requested but the edges were overcooked and dry which wasn’t pleasant. The oddest thing about this brgr though was it’s lack of flavour – it was completely tasteless. The cheese was rubbery and didn’t bring any flavour either. I ate it but I didn’t particularly enjoy it.
Four options of hand cut fries were available and I chose the ones topped with melted cheese (£3.85). The fries were undercooked, under seasoned and served in an overly large bowl which barely fit onto our tiny table. There was a small amount of barely melted cheese on top and a large amount of tasteless cheesy sauce at the bottom of the bowl which made most of the fries soggy.
The side of homemade coleslaw (£2.95) was actually our favourite. As far as coleslaw goes it was pretty bog standard – but it had flavour which is something its predecessors had lacked.
London isn’t short of good burger places – Tommi’s Burger Joint, Patty&Ban and Meat Market/Liquor all provided me with a really decent burger – BRGR.CO sadly didn’t. The staff were really friendly and chatty but that couldn’t possibly make up for the fact that the food was completely tasteless. This one certainly isn’t for me.