Foxlow is the latest venture from the guys behind Hawksmoor steakhouses and it’s based in St John Street, Farringdon on the former site of Michelin starred North Road – I was gutted when that closed!
Gone were the previous stark white walls and instead it was a very homely affair; beautifully done out. We were seated upstairs avoiding the buzzy downstairs area complete with self service salad bar, which was a shame. I’d request the ground floor when booking if you ask me.
It was awfully hot when we arrived and it only got worse – I remained positively moist for our entire visit. It was unbearably uncomfortable. We were kindly invited back with the offer of 50% off the bill to make up for it which was a nice touch. Rather worryingly, when we made our return visit it was equally as hot!
We started with some sourdough, olive oil and dukkah (Â£2.50). The thick slices of bread were really spongy with a lovely crusty exterior. The dukkah which is an Egyptian aromatic seed and nut mix remained mostly uneaten; it felt like an odd combination with the oil.
Starters suitably impressed. The crispy five pepper squid (Â£7) makes my mouth water as I write about; tender strips of squid encased in an impressively crisp yet light batter. The spicy mayo was great too.
Iberico pork ribs (Â£8.50) were some of the finest ribs I’ve ever eaten (you’re going to hear that phrase a lot FYI). The meat fell off the bone yet retained it’s texture and the flavour, my God the flavour, simply wow. I’m still undecided whether they would have benefitted from a sauce or not – I suspect they were good enough not to need it.
My main of Iberico pork pluma (Â£16) was even better. The slices of pork were served medium and they were utterly phenomenal. Just like the ribs the flavour was seriously intense – some of the most flavourful pork I’ve ever eaten. I really mean that.
The deckle (Â£22) was another winner. I’d never heard of deckle before but it’s one of the two parts of beef you get in a rib eye steak and it’s often underused. A nice layer of perfectly cooked fat sat atop each chunky slice which provided oodles of flavour. Some of the tastiest steak I’ve ever eaten.
The ten hour beef short rib (Â£16) was a generous portion. The tangy kimchi cut through the rich and slightly fatty meat wondrously; slow cooked meat doesn’t get much better than that. It could have done with a bit of a sauce perhaps though – or a nice bit of gravy.
The skin on fries with bacon salt (Â£3.50) were crisp and seasoned well but I preferred the beef dripping potatoes (Â£3.50) as they were brilliantly beefy. The sausage stuffed onion (Â£3.50) was a weird one; it came swimming in a watery brown sauce which wasn’t particularly appetising, a shame really as the flavour was ruddy lovely – ever so sweet and delicious.
For dessert, the cherry pie (Â£6.50) was a heartwarming delight. It was served with some soft serve raspberry ripple ice cream like you get from a Mr Whippy van. Great stuff.
That was good but the peanutella with sweet toast (Â£5) was even better – the best pudding I’ve ever had in my life in fact. An old Nutella jar was filed with a chocolate and caramel concoction topped with peanuts. Loading it onto the wedges of brioche that had been baked then fried in sugar and butter was a blissful experience. There was even a small mound of salt meaning you could season each mouthful yourself. Phooarr.
The food at Foxlow was worth getting sweaty for – although I couldn’t wait to leave and have a cold shower – I’ve never had meat quite like it. The staff were really sweet and friendly too; our waiter even gave us each a bag of their salted caramel popcorn as a sorry for the heating situation which was very kind indeed. Damn those ribs were good.