Le Trois Garçons in Shoreditch has been on my to-do list for a few years but for some reason I’ve never got round to eating there. I’ve always looked through their window and seen the handbags hanging from the ceiling and thought it’d be right up street – and I’m pleased to say it really was.
The inside of the restaurant is unlike any other I’ve seen before; it’s like a grand bric-a-brac shop filled with interesting and unusual objects. A stuffed lion here, a stone monkey statue there and a model of an alligator wearing a tiara – it was all beautiful in a mad kind of way – plenty to look at to say the least!
Some bread with salted butter and a sweet onion veloute got things off to a very tasty start. The veloute served in a little cup was more than enough to leave my cockles well and truly warmed.
The dishes, described in French, were translated to English below. To start the sweetbread and crayfish spring roll on sesame dressed bean sprout salad (£12) worked really well – I’ve never seen sweetbreads and crayfish together before. The only let down was the cold bean sprouts – they would have tasted far better hot.
The foie gras cured in sauternes and cooked “au torchon” served with toasted brioche and seared foie gras served on an apple and shallot tart tatin (£15) tasted as good as it sounds. The brown smear underneath the seared foie gras was a little off putting. I dislike paintbrush sauces, particularly brown ones! However both pieces tasted utterly divine; the seared foie being a real highlight.
For main the fillet and belly of Mansrigg Farm pork with runner beans, amaranth, gluten free celeriac gnocchi and a ginger and honey sauce (£24) was like a porky mix grill – there was loads of meat. The belly was soft and gelatinous which went perfectly with the sweetness of the honey. The gnocchi were so delicate they fell apart when cut which was a shame.
The poached ballotine of chicken and lobster, glazed lobster claw, boneless chicken wing, lobster and chicken won tons, sugar snaps and a spiced lobster bisque (£25) was a stunner. There were plenty of ingredients and techniques present which all amounted to a mouthful of rich creamy heaven. I love deboned chicken wings – it’s all the flavour and loveliness just without the hassle. Here the wing was cooked perfectly and the perfect companion for the strong seafood whallop from the bisque.
For dessert I went for the banana and tapioca pudding flamed with rum, salted peanut caramel and iced banana purée (£7.50). The rum was poured over the pudding at the table which was a nice touch and there was plenty of it too – it had a real kick. The smear of caramel had stuck to the plate meaning I couldn’t scrape/chip it off which was a tad annoying. The tapioca itself was delicious and seriously sweet – I loved every mouthful.
The assiette de fromages affinés (£11) (that’s cheese if you didn’t know) was an enjoyably varied selection; the stinky Camembert being a firm favourite. The selection of homemade breads that accompanied were lovely too.
We really enjoyed our dinner at Le Trois Garçons – the whole experience was a very pleasant one. The staff were really charming from the minute we walked through the door and were chatty throughout which I love. Although the food was neither cheap nor faultless, on the whole it was very tasty indeed and I found the dining room utterly beguiling!
8/10
