As we didn’t have much time left during our visit to Copenhagen, we decided to pop into BROR simply for ‘snacks’ and not for dinner – they do love their snacks out there. It’s a restaurant popular with the locals as it serves simple, no fuss food and they use plenty of offal and off cuts meaning a visit doesn’t break the bank.
It was a pleasant space inside with seating either in the bright and airy basement or upstairs opposite the semi open kitchen; it all felt very rough and ready in the most charming of ways.
We started with the ‘bull’s balls’ which were actually flattened bull’s testicle (I was expecting meatballs!) that had been breadcrumbed and deep fried. I’ve never had testicle before (stop it) but they were really tasty, just like sweetbreads, and the accompanying tartare sauce was a great contrast to the fattiness.
The ‘cod cheek, Jimmy’s remoulade and crispy bread’, came served inside the cod’s head which we weren’t expecting – it looked great though. The cheek itself was soft and succulent but it was the extra bits of flesh around the head that were really impressive – even the tongue, which I had to prise from its mouth.
‘Squid, watercress, cep’ came in a little bowl and the squid was cooked to absolute perfection. The thinly sliced ceps were raw; I’m not usually keen on raw mushrooms but here they were a great companion for the squid.
‘Chicken liver, smoked corn’ was a really rich and creamy chicken liver parfait served with sweet, charred baby corn which had been smothered in butter – altogether it made for a brilliant mouthful. From the main course section we couldn’t resist ordering the beef tartare which came with little chunks of bone marrow and roasted beef heart – the flavour was intensely meaty and ruddy lovely.
For dessert, a small sour milk ice cream covered in chocolate and walnuts was served with a sharp cherry compote. It was really enjoyable; it tasted like a mix between a MiniMilk and a Feast.
We were really impressed by BROR – so much so we were saddened we couldn’t try the full menu. It’s a cute little restaurant which actually serves tasty food you want to eat – and in a city filled with 20 course tasting menus consisting of berries and leaves, that’s rather a nice thing.