Naughty Piglets, Brixton

Naughty Piglets business card

It’s a random name for a restaurant I’ll give you that, but this new and cute little spot in Brixton (we drove, don’t worry) from husband and wife team Joe Sharratt (chef) and Margaux Aubry (front of house) is really rather good.

Outside

There’s a small dining room out the back, which is incredibly dark (too dark?) or the bar with stool seats at the front which is where we opted to sit. The kitchen is tiny and there’s just two chefs so it was fascinating to watch it all. Everyone was so lovely too, there was a wonderful energy about the place.

Inside

We started with some ham croquettes (£4) which had a really lovely crunch to their exterior which gave way to a soft and gooey centre.

Ham croquettes

‘Burrata, courgettes, mint, basil’ (£6) was exactly that and if it wasn’t the best bleedin’ burrata I’ve ever eaten then I don’t know what is. Its sloppy innards practically exploded when prized open with my fork, creating an avalanche of creamy goodness. The mint and basil providing an unusual alliance to match the raw courgettes; utterly brilliant.

Burrata

A long, thick strip of pork belly (£9) came with an intriguing Korean chilli paste and some undressed baby gem. It was a bold statement “here’s three components which work brilliantly together and that’s all you’re getting” – and they got it so very right.

Pork belly

An XXL diver scallop (£11) was draped in lardo (pig fat) which is surely the only way you can better a scallop. The brown butter sauce it came generously drenched in only added to the richness of this sensational dish.

XXL diver scallop

BBQ lamb leg (£15) came with mini roasted Jersey royals, spinach and an almost spicy salsa verde which was divine. Meat, potato and veg; this was simple cooking elevated to somewhere a lot of chefs don’t seem to quite manage these days.

Lamb rump

It was only after reading Fay Maschler’s review in the Evening Standard that we got to hear about Naughty Piglets, so I owe having my best meal of the year so far, to her. The stools might be a bit high, the dining room might be a bit dark, and the toilets might be a bit old fashioned (I think they ran out of money), but my God, that food is amazing.

9/10

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