A trip to Goodman Mayfair last year provided me with the best steak I’ve ever eaten; our 900g USDA bone-in Porterhouse was simply exceptional. My only problem with London steakhouses however is the price – if they weren’t so expensive I’d probably eat in one every day.

I was pleased then to see that Goodman in the City offered a set lunch menu; two courses for £18 or three for £22. We were seated in a booth in the bar area which was a more than pleasant place to sit as it made for some light relief, sheltering from the wealthy suited chaps that were inevitably present.

To start, tomato and mozzarella salad was like the one you might find at Pizza Express but I say that not in a bad way – I love that salad. And tomato and mozzarella is one of, if not the best, flavour combinations ever.

The 10oz New York Strip (£6 supplement) with hand cut chips was a generous size for a set lunch menu. The thick band of fat was crisp and charred while the meat was a blushing shade of pink in the centre. You could tell it had been cooked by someone who loves eating steak. The chips had the perfect balance of aggressive seasoning with crispy and soggy coating – which is everything I look for in a good ol’ chip.

We ordered a side of carrots in a ginger and lime glaze (£4) in a vain attempt to be healthy. Our waitress kindly brought out all the sauces; béarnaise, peppercorn and horseradish gravy which were rich, sticky and exactly the sort of thing you want to smother your meat.

I guess the real fun to be had at a steakhouse is ordering a giant chunk of beef complete with bone and getting stuck in. But I for one was pleased to know there’s a slightly cheaper way of doing it too. The steak was delicious, the service was friendly – which makes for a pretty good lunch in my book.

4/5