Balls & Company in Soho – there’s a joke in there somewhere but I’m too respectable for that. Anyhoo, this is Greek Street’s latest opening and it comes from Australian born Bonny Porter (previously of The Arts Club and Village East), who’s attempting to make the ‘humble meatball more refined’.
It’s a small restaurant which was rather loud on our visit, but that does at least dampen down the neighbouring table’s conversation which is never a bad thing. There’s a tiny open kitchen at the end which adds some adventure.
The balls are served in fours (£8) and with a choice of sauces. The Wagyu, served medium rare, was of super quality; the flavour was divine. The accompanying romesco sauce was sweet and nutty. Chicken balls came topped with a béchamel sauce which had been baked on giving it a much firmer texture than I expected. Again, flavour was big and bold. The pork balls, in a classic sweet tomato sauce were lovely. Sides of thick cut chips and market greens (both £4) were great; the chubby chips being well seasoned and crispy.
The only problem I had with all the balls was the lack of sauce – there was nowhere near enough. I like my balls dripping, like the ones at Oldroyd in Islington, where there’s more sauce than meat. At Balls & Company they seemed a little too refined.
Dessert was a strange one; a really good brownie (£5) was topped with Persian candy floss which had the texture (and appearance) of my Granny’s hair. Seriously. Very strange indeed but quite fun.
I didn’t dislike Balls & Company, far from it; service was certainly charming and there’s a fun vibe about the place. I just hope they get some more sauce going over those balls. But for food that doesn’t break the bank, you could do a lot worse.
I dined as a guest of the restaurant.