I’m a real fan of Sky Garden, the glass dome at the top of the Walkie Talkie building. The landscaped gardens, which are impressive at such an altitude, not to mention the views all over London can’t help leaving you speechless.
When up there, on the 35th floor, there’s two dining options; Fenchurch Seafood and Grill or the Darwin Brasserie, which is the cheaper and more relaxed of the two. We opted for the latter.
The dining room is a bit like being in a canteen/airport cafe. Our waiter was sweet, but the type who would pop up every five seconds; at one point I thought we might need to acquire a restraining order.
To start, we shared the steak tartare (£14.50), which was perfectly fine. It suffered from being super boring though; where was the seasoning? The spice? The excitement? It needed to be far bolder.
Mains also followed suit in terms of dullness. The roast chicken breast with herb gnocchi and salsa verde (£17.50) was cooked well and tasted perfectly pleasant. But there was a serious lack of seasoning. Same for the roasted sea bream fillet (£17.95). Even the fennel and citrus fruits didn’t provide much of a wow factor. My handmade pulled pork burger (£16.95) came with a basket of chips which reminded me of touristy pub grub.
Pudding was nice; summer berry tart with pistachio crumble (£7.95). The pastry case was as crisp as anything and it looked as pretty as a picture.
Sky Garden is undoubtedly wonderful but the Darwin Brasserie is a bit plain Jane for me. It’s a shame when your surroundings are more exciting than what you’re eating – that’s where places like Duck & Waffle and City Social get it so right. It wasn’t dreadful, but it could be sooo much better.