Pizza Locadeli is a new pop up on Islington’s Upper Street by Michelin starred restaurateur Giorgio Locatelli. The move into a more affordable, every day option makes sense – and it doesn’t get much more affordable than pizza – it’s just a shame it wasn’t any good!

On our Friday evening visit the place was packed but a table quickly became available after a short wait by the door with a bottle of Peroni – what, no craft beer? It’s quite a sweet room with a really high ceiling and an open kitchen but it was bloody boiling – genuinely the kind of heat you’d expect in a sauna.

Our table was wobbly and the staff were running around the place in the most chaotic of fashions. We started by sharing the burrata (£7). I love a good burrata and this was certainly that. The addition of roasted hazelnuts, pumpkin and peppery rocket made for a simple but lovely combination of flavours.

The margarita pizza (£9) was the weak link due to its soggy bottom. Maybe it was because I asked for the gluten free option, but even so, a doughy base is not what anyone’s after. There’s such good pizza on offer all over the shop at the minute and this really didn’t compete. My gentleman companion’s spaghettini alle vongole (£13.50) was a pleasant bowl of pasta filled with clams; nice, but nothing special.

We didn’t feel inspired to stay for pudding, it was one of those kind of meals. We left feeling Pizza Locadeli could be a lot better than it is – I know it’s only a pop up but the sweaty conditions, manic service and distinctly average food left me rather glad it is just that.

2/5