Bernardi’s (owned by the Bernardi brothers) is on Seymour Place which has fast become a foodie hotspot with the likes of Donostia, Lurra and The Lockhart just seconds away. It’s a big restaurant and although the interior is quite simple, it has a relaxing vibe to it. An open kitchen, where the particularly good house focaccia is made, adds a livelier element.

We started with some pizzettas; gorgonzola and prosciutto (£8) and confit leek, Taleggio and celery (£7). The latter might sound a little odd but it was inspired – the celery made for a refreshing element to it all.

Pumpkin and gorgonzola arancini (£4.50) had that molten, stringy, cheesy thing going on when you cut into them, which made them totally divine. Charred squid (£8.50) came with a sweet tomato sauce so full of garlic I could have easily been mistaken for Buffy the Vampire Slayer – proper lovely stuff.

Market fish crudo (£16.50), that’s Scottish salmon, Yellowfin tuna and sea bass, made for a light and refreshing change to the richness of everything else. It was a total stunner too. Tarragon gnocchi (£9) were tossed in a rabbit ragu which was a real cockle warmer. The gnocchi had a crisp edge to one side ensuring they weren’t soggy balls of stodge.

Slow cooked pork collar (£18.50) went surprisingly well with clams – they both seemed to bring out the best in each other. The pork was insanely good, soft and tender with masses of porky flavour. If it’s on, this is a must order.

For dessert, Gianduja mousse, bitter chocolate and vanilla ice cream (£8) was a bit thick and heavy for me. The coffee semifreddo (£6.50) was far lighter with a real whallop of coffee which is just what I needed.

I really enjoyed my lunch at Bernardi’s – it had all the trappings of a great neighbourhood restaurant yet one you wouldn’t be disappointed if you’d travelled for. Super friendly service topped it off; it was the type that makes you feel at home from the minute you step through the door. Looks like Seymour Place has got another cracker.

4/5

We dined as guests of the restaurant.