Le Relais de Venise, Soho

Le Relais de Venise business card

This is the groups fourth London restaurant which specialises in steak and their ‘secret’ special sauce (£24). There’s something about their one in Marylebone; the constant queue, the paper tablecloths, the tightly packed tables, the kebab shop lighting – I just love it.

Le Relais de Venise outside

This one in Soho on the corner of Dean Street feels a bit more chainy for some reason. For starters, the sign above the door lights up and inside it all feels a bit new, a bit characterless.

There’s no menu, so you start with a plate of salad dressed in their tangy mustard vinaigrette topped with walnuts with a side of baguette and no butter. It’s simple but really rather tasty.

le relais de venise bread

The steak frites was next up and it comes in two sittings, so as to keep it super fresh and hot. The thin slices of fat free meat were cooked rare as requested; full of flavour and a lovely shade of ruby red. The sauce, a vibrant snot green in colour, was plentiful and delicious. The frites surprisingly needed seasoning but were both crisp and soggy which is exactly what I look for in good old chip.

le relais de venise steak

For dessert, we shared the profiteroles (£7) which I’m positive on other occasions, at their other branches, have been far bigger. As they’re stuffed with ice cream, these, however delightful, were just a little puny. The hot chocolate sauce was never ending though and simply wonderful.

le relais de venise profiteroles

Service was sweet and friendly and the food, although having its faults, was the perfect grub to soak up the shed load of alcohol we had previously necked. If you want to avoid the queues of Marylebone, this one is probably your best bet.

3/5

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