It’s not a place I often frequent to be honest, is Holland Park. I’m not sure I’ve actually ever been there before. But now Six Portland Road has opened, on 6 Portland Road, I think I’ll be planning many more a visit.

It’s a restaurant from Oli Barker (front of house) who used to head up Terroirs near the Strand. Much like there, the menu is simple and there’s a big focus on wine. On our Friday night visit the place was packed with locals, all wealthy and jolly, giving a relaxed atmosphere. It was candle lit with white paper tablecloths.

Starters of pork and pistachio terrine (£8) and squid with brandade (£10.50) proved both simple yet enjoyable. There’s something wonderful about a restaurant that uses the finest and freshest ingredients and has the confidence to let them stand out without over complicating things.

For main, we went for the special of ribeye steak topped with a homemade butter served with darn right decent chips (a nice crunch and well seasoned). The meat was moist and buttery and served exactly as it should be – medium rare.

Brill with rouille and Pink Fir potatoes (£22) saw exquisite fish cooked by someone who clearly loves eating it; crunchy, salty skin and soft flesh. I could have done with less rouille though (a kind of sauce that consists of olive oil with breadcrumbs, garlic and saffron) as it was quite heavy.

For dessert, a chocolate mousse (£7.50) was light and airy, feeling almost healthy (well sort of) with the booze soaked Griottine cherries and toasted almonds.

You hear the term ‘neighbourhood restaurants’ a lot these days – most likely because it’s more affordable to open outside of W1. What that does do though is make people like me want to eat less in Soho and more in places like this. There is life outside of central London, and I think I’m starting to like it.

4/5

We dined as guests of the restaurant.