Kricket, Soho

Kricket in Brixton, housed in a shipping container serving Indian small plates, was bloody brilliant. Like seriously so. Friends Will Bowlby (kitchen) and Rik Campbell (front of house) seemed to have a winning combo of fantastic food and great vibes.

They’ve since opened a far swankier spot in Soho, or arguably Piccadilly, on Denman Street. It is predominantly walk-ins only and it’s counter seating overlooking the open kitchen. The chunky stools don’t move though so if you’ve got long legs and a pot belly you’re likely to feel a tad squished.

The menu sees some old favourites like samphire pakora (£5.50), bhel puri (£5) and Keralan fried chicken (£7.50) which have barely changed since my last visit and there’s good reason; they are perfection.

New additions like kid goat raan (£11) sees strips of tender goat in a light and fragrant sauce with a sprinkling of pomegranates for freshness. We dunk our Malabar paratha (£3.50), all buttery and crumbly, and soak up all the juices.

For pud, we share the two on offer (both £5.50). The misti doi is a thick set yoghurt which is a little dense and lacking in flavour for me . I do love the cardamom kheer however, basically a rice pudding, topped with forced rhubarb for sharpness and crumbled biscuit for texture.

With a sexy dining room and confident service, the food didn’t let it down in the slightest. It’s one of those openings where the place feels like it has been there for years yet still at the top of its game. An exciting place to have dinner I’d say.

Would we go back? Yes