Brigadiers, Bloomberg Arcade

JKS has a restaurant portfolio to be proud of, be it their own ventures; Gymkhana, Trishna, Hoppers or ones they have backed; Lyle’s, Bubbledogs, Bao, XU, Sabor. There really isn’t a dud in the list.

Their latest opening is Brigadiers and it’s the largest site within The City’s Bloomberg Arcade. They’ve gone big. They’ve gone bold. They’ve gone bloody beautiful. It’s a city boy/girl funhouse.

Whether eating in the bar area which has five screens discreetly hidden when they’re not playing big matches or the more formal dining room, both are gorgeous spaces. Or you can hire the pool room or one of the five private dining rooms. Or you can have a pint and a nibble on their outside terrace.

The menu is vast and it all sounds delicious. We start with pappadums and chutneys (£6) and masala chicken skins (£5) washed down with a Hand Pulled Old Fashioned (£10). The cocktails and specially brewed Brigadiers beers deserve a special shoutout.

Origninal BBQ butter chicken wings (£8) are splendid. Giant chunks of bird; the flesh moist with crispy burnt bits of skins and a sauce so moreish you want to lick the plate clean.

Next up some skewers; Lasooni chicken tikka and heart (£5.50) and Afghani lamb (£7.50). The latter has slices of fat in between each chunk of meat then green pepper to cut through the richness of it all.

Paneer shashlik (£11) sees giant squares of that marvellous Indian cheese blistered from the intense heat of the tandoor oven. They’re refreshed with a lime and mint sauce for dipping.

A half rack of lamb chops (£19) has also undergone the same treatment. The resulting crisp lamb flat is, to quote Giles Coren, “quite the best thing I have eaten since the last thing I said was the best thing I have ever eaten.”

Goat can often be dry, or maybe I’m just eating it at the wrong places? Here it ain’t. The Sikandari kid goat shoulder (£25), shredded and sitting atop crisp, greasy parathas is a meat lover’s heaven.

They’ve got everything so absolutely spot on with Brigadiers and the menu, like the space, is so sprawling you’ll need three visits to try all the food. I’m looking forward to returning already.

Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant