Timberyard, Edinburgh

Timberyard is one of those must visit restaurants if you’re in Edinburgh. The front, with its giant red door, looks like a fire station and the inside could win awards for interior design. It’s one of the coolest looking restaurants I’ve been in.

It’s a vast Warehouse style dining room and on this rather chilly Scottish afternoon, it’s a bit breezy. We’re first given menus to peruse in front of a log burner however, before going to our table, which is a really lovely touch.

The lunch menu is small and concise. From the ‘bites’ section (£3) we order raw beef with shallot, nasturtium, watercress and buckwheat. It’s a mighty fine take on their own steak tartare and it’s a wonderful thing. Raw scallop tartare is hidden beneath sheets of daikon – it’s light and fresh.

Small plates (£7) offer rabbit, celeriac, celery and parsnip and plaice with clams and sea herbs. Both dishes are understated in appearance yet big on flavour. The flavours and textures are intriguing and unusual but most importantly: they eat bloody well.

Large plates (£14) see some perfect pork (served two ways) with cauliflower and cabbage. The large chunk of bright white loin is a superb display of quality and cooking. Even the accompanying kohlrabi feels it has a place which is rare. Hake, with its crisp skin, comes with plump mussels and sea herbs surrounded by a puddle of buttery sauce.

Sweets (£6) follow suit; perfectly formed, beautifully presented and big on flavour. ‘Plum, elderberry, goats yoghurt, juniper, oatmeal’ – textures and temperatures (the goats yoghurt has been mixed with liquid nitrogen) galore. Sea buckthorn, a sharp seaside berry, with pumpkin seeds and carrot sponge is light and refreshing.

The biggest shock with Timberyard was how the Michelin guide had bypassed it. It wouldn’t be out of place on the World’s 50 Best list either. The food was interesting and served on some really beautiful crockery and the dining room was stunning. Definitely one to watch…

Would we go back? Yes