This is Hawkmsoor’s 6th restaurant in London (plus one in Manchester) and it’s by far their prettiest. Based right by Borough Market, next to Le Pain Quotidien, in a former hops warehouse, it’s full of character. It’s all parquet flooring and dark gloss walls.
Service is the usual relaxed, wear your own clothes, “how’re you getting on buddy?”, style. We’re seated in the corner of the large dining room below a blackboard of the evening’s cuts and sizes.
We start with a mix of Jersey Rock oysters; plain (£7 for 3) and roasted with bone marrow topped with breadcrumbs (£9 for 3). The latter are insanely good FYI. The oysters are from Wright Brothers just opposite.
Salcombe crab on toast (£12.50) is nice and light. There’s a decent blend of the stronger dark meat and the delicate white, along with a tangy mayo which livens it all up. We share it to make the most of the impending meat for main.
We go for a 700g sirloin which arrives pre sliced on a skillet and it’s a marvellous piece of beef. The thick chunks of fat have such strength in flavour that it takes over my whole mouth. The scraps off the bone, the best bit in my opinion, are equally strong. The rest, served medium rare, is soft and tender. Peppercorn and béarnaise (both £3) are fine examples of sauces.
We also go for Salt Marsh lamb chops (£30) which come with Isle of Barra cockles – but I could probably do without them. The meat however is divine. Side wise we go for mac n cheese (£5.50) which blends crispy, gooey and stringy in perfect harmony. See my Instagram for proof.
Feeling stuffed, we skip pud and share some of their homemade salted caramel rolos (£4). They sell them to takeaway too which I would thoroughly recommend doing – they taste better than the originals.
In short, Hawksmoor have done it again, another great space, more of the same great meat and some super friendly service to go with it. The whole experience might be a costly one – we went back for Mother’s Day and spent a small fortune – but my God is it worth it.
Would we go back? Yes.
We dined as guests of the restaurant