Wild Honey, Mayfair

I last went to Wild Honey back in 2012 when it had a Michelin star. The food was great and I loved the hunter’s log cabin-esque dining room. It since lost its star after the split of its business partners and now one of them, Anthony Demetre, is running the place solo.

Not much has changed, it’s still a looker. Dark wood panelled walls and a wealthy Mayfair clientele wearing diamonds as old as their faces. There are white tablecloths too – I’m all for modern but sometimes you want dinner somewhere fancy like this.

I start with late season asparagus, morels and boneless chicken wings (£16). It’s a celebration of great quality ingredients – and I love any chef that can be bothered to take out the bone in a chicken wing so I don’t have to. It’s covered in a mousseline sauce – posh for hollandaise – which brings everything together.

We’re treated to an extra course; burrata and Italian white peach (£12), which is a pretty lil thing. The burrata is made in Acton by La Latteria and it’s better (don’t shoot!) than any I’ve had from Italy. Here, the addition of hazelnuts and sultanas adds both crunch and sweetness in the most gorgeous of ways.

For mains, the grilled French Limousine rosé veal chop (£33) could do with more generosity on the salt front but it’s a mighty fine chunk of meat. I enjoy gnawing my companion’s bone with little shame.

I go for the saddle of rabbit (£29), which you don’t see enough of on menus. Soft and bouncy, the rabbit is stuffed with the offaly bits which adds bitterness – lovely stuff. An accompanying side of slow cooked shoulder cottage pie is an extra treat.

Desserts are the highlight, in particular a custard tart (£8) so wobbly and gooey it flows like a custardy waterfall down my throat. Valrhona chocolate tart (£9) is another example of an exceptional pastry case – not a soggy bottom in sight – and wild honey with honeycomb (£8) is simple perfection.

It was nice to see Wild Honey packed on our Thursday night visit – it’s the sort of restaurant that deserves to be. As much as I love borage butter and beetroot macaroons, sometimes you want white tablecloths and proper food. That’s what you’ll get at Wild Honey.

Would we go back? Yes.

We dined as guests of the restaurant

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