“A tale of chef Gonzalo Luzarraga’s culinary journey”. This sentence definitely sums up the service style at Rigo as every dish comes with a long and detailed explanation as to its relation to the chef. Why, how, who, when, where – it’s all there.
It won’t be everyone’s cup of tea – some will find it intrusive and, at times, a little annoying. I quite enjoy this way of eating though. As much I go to dinner to catch up with a friend I also enjoy the theatre and detail of multi course menus.
Here, the tasting menu here is £78 per person for six courses and the food is exceptional. From bold and intriguing flavours like sea urchin in bagna couda and fermented milk, which is like being slapped round the face with a taste of the sea, to more straightforward offerings such as a tomato tart which tastes simply of a caprese salad.
‘Spaghettoni dei fiori’ is a plate of spaghetti so moreish it makes schlepping all the way to Parsons Green worth it (take it from me, that is one long Boris Bike ride from London Bridge). Little nuggets of natural yeast melt in the mouth to create the thickest of sauces.
There are two options for the main event. Pluma of Cinta Senese (Tuscan pig) has a marvellously marbled texture with enough fat to melt through the ruby red meat. It comes with an oyster – a combo I’m yet to see anywhere else, possibly for good reason.
For the pork we are presented with a wooden box filled with fancy steak knives which would seem a tad strange in any other restaurant but for RIGO’ it seems totally normal.
A chunk of monkfish with courgettes and cucumber is a beautiful piece of fish. The dish’s simplicity shows the kitchen knows how to make tasty food using superb ingredients.
Dessert brings this back to whacky. A porcini ice cream atop popcorn crumbs. “Mushroom ice cream!” I hear you yell. “Gross!” I hear your exclaim. But seriously, it’s lush. Addictive too as it’s so well balanced.
We finish with a tiny black garlic chocolate truffle, naturally. Intense and full on – if you like garlic and chocolate then you’ll enjoy, it just may take some time to realise it.
RIGO’ is certainly a restaurant that got me thinking – and I haven’t been anywhere quite like it, which in this day and age is rather impressive.
Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant