Duddell’s, London Bridge

Duddell’s is a two Michelin starred restaurant in Hong Kong. Or as they put it “a cultural and social destination for people who have an active appreciation for the arts”. It’s popular and although I’ve never been, I hear good things.

This is their first restaurant abroad and they’ve chosen a rather stunning location for it: St. Thomas Church near the Shard. Inside, four huge chandeliers hang from the tall ceiling, there are giant stained glass windows and a wooden alter. There’s a mezzanine for when things get busy. There’s an open kitchen for added drama. It’s wow.

From the lunchtime dim sum menu, har gau (£7) are little gelatinous parcels of prawn. Sticky, gooey and totally comforting. Iberico char siu buns (£7) are milky pillows stuffed full of rich porky mince. They’re as sweet as dessert which is no bad thing.

“Truffle spring rolls?!” I hear you cry? I wasn’t entirely convinced the strong perfume of truffle would suit the accompanying chilli oils either (which come in a beautiful, branded wooden tray). How wrong we all are. Moreish would be the word here.

‘Cantonese dim sum symphony’ (£16) sees three different parcels filled with prawn/king crab/prawn and scallop. Some are shaped like little fishes which is cute. Again, the texture is spot on.

Peking duck (£35 for half) is a must order. It’s carved table side and comes with homemade pancakes and eight condiments including pomelo and pineapple. The duck is incredibly moist and gives nearby Hutong (£32 for half) a run for its money.

We’re encouraged to eat the masses of crisp skin with fennel sugar which is pure heaven. If you’re a duck and pancakes lover then you’re in for a treat. The rest of the duck is then chopped up and returns in black bean sauce with red and spring onion.

Cubes of ‘crackling pork belly’ (£14) are unusual in the sense they’re served room temperature. The pork itself has a firm, jelly-like texture while the skin is as crisp as anything. Another must order.

For dessert I really just want a rich, overly sweet custard bun like at A.Wong. At Duddell’s it’s a fancier offering. Yuzu tart (£9) and macademia nut delice (£9) both look the part but don’t excite like the other dishes.

Without a doubt this is one of the more exciting openings I’ve been to of late. If the room doesn’t impress you then that duck or the endless dim sum certainly will. I’d just make a reservation now, this will be a popular one…

Would we go back? Yes

We dined as guests of the restaurant