Sophie’s Steakhouse, Soho

The original Sophie’s steakhouse in Fulham has been around for 15 years. Their second, in Covent Garden, had to up sticks and leave to make way for a new hotel owned by none other than Robert De Niro. Panic not as owners Sophie Bathgate and Rupert Power have now opened in Soho.

It’s an astonishingly large setup. There’s a terrace, a whopping bar, a huge dining room and a nightclub in the basement. We’re seated opposite the open kitchen right by the fire pit from which slabs of meat are slow cooking. It’s so hot we ask to move but if it you’re not a sweater, it’s the best seat in the house.

We start with ‘scallops from the fire’ (£5 each) which are gorgeous. They’re swimming in black garlic butter with crisp fried capers. They’re particular nice with a 10oz Sipsmith Gin Martini (£12) which is so big it lasts the entire meal.

Rib croquettes (£6) pack a beefy punch. A tangy pickled caper mayo is jus the thing to cut through the richness of that fatty meat. Grilled octopus (£9) is lovely and smokey but the burnt aubergine beneath it is a little bland and pappy.

Sophie’s get their meat from Cornish butcher Philip Warren and it’s some of the finest bloomin’ beef you can eat. We go for a 10oz ribeye (£25) and sirloin (£23) which have the charred exterior and blushing pink centre you want in a steak. The fat is lush; both crisp and melty.

Sauces (£3) are great; a creamy béarnaise and a rich bone marrow gravy are perfect for clinging to the beef dripping fries (£4). Smoked cauliflower (£6) with humous tahini and pomegranates is a more refreshing companion for all that meat.

With a relaxed service and keen price point Sophie’s is one of the more generous steakhouses in London. And if you’ve never tried beef from Philip Warren then put this new opening to the top of your list.

Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant