Neptune, The Principal London

Neptune is the restaurant from Brett Redman inside the recently opened, and rather stunning, Principal London. This guy knows how to run restaurants, owning Elliot’s in Borough Market and Jidori in Covent Garden and Dalston.

This is his biggest opening yet and no expense has been spared on the fit out. There’s a salmon and gold colour scheme with plants a plenty. It’s a very cool space. The rest of the hotel is pretty stunning too. Full of marble, tall ceilings and giant staircases.

The menu is seafood-focussed so we start with a deluxe seafood platter (£58). It’s impressive cos’ there’s so much of it. The quality is something else and the cooking is spot on. Half lobster, oysters (four from Essex, two from Cornwall) langoustines, razor clams, mussels, sea trout tartare, mackerel rillettes. It’s all there. Best of all is some Exmoor Caviar, a dollop of sour cream and mini hash browns. Ooooff.

Next up we go for starters of burrata with melon, shiso and Vesuvius tomatoes (£10) and Niçoise salad with Cantabrian anchovies (£10). Both showcase exquisite ingredients which aren’t messed around with. Simplicity at its finest.

From the wood grill, day boat brill on the bone (£22) comes in a butter sauce filled with shiitake mushrooms. The thick wedge of bright white fish is cooked to perfection. Sides of crisp beef dripping chips and tangy green salad (both £4) are made for this dish.

A bowl of spaghetti comes with a generous helping of cockles, squid and parsley (£16). There’s a huge thwack of garlic which is just heavenly. A little pot of chilli oil allows you to self season – the extra fiery kick goes down well.

We share the chocolate, espresso and salted caramel delice (£8) which is super rich; I doubt you could finish it on your own. There’s a sexy shine to the chocolate ganache coating which gives way to a smooth salted caramel centre. Couldn’t taste the coffee though.

It’s an impressive set up at Neptune. As you walk into that dining room you can’t help but be impressed by the glamour. Better still is the service; friendly, chatty and passionate about the produce they’re serving.

Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant