Maison Bab, Covent Garden

Maison Bab is a “modern kebab house” from friends Stephen Tozer (ex city) and Ed Brunet (ex Le Gavroche). Based in Covent Garden, opposite Temper, it’s a looker inside; tall ceiling, open kitchen and Tom Dixon-inspired copper light shades.

I arrive a touch hungover which is handy as a kebab is the perfect fix. We start with a naan bread drenched in meat butter (£4.50). It’s a little crispier than your usual naan but it’s a real indulgent treat.

Hummus (£4.50) is topped with peanut, sundried tomatoes and za’atar pesto. Best of all is the breads: a slice of focaccia(ish) and flatbread which has the perfect amount of chew. All this stuff is homemede, in-house, and you can tell.

Mutton curry (£5.50) is a fiery little number. There are chunks of bone-in mutton in a rich, oily and rather spicy sauce which is moreish, moreish, moreish.

Lamb Adana (£9.50) is a kofte made of Herdwick lamb, perfectly pink and boldly spiced. Pickled shallots cut through the richness of that lamb and there’s more of that lovely, chewy bread. Homemade chilli sauce comes on the side. It has deep depth of flavour.

Iskender Fondue fries (£6) sees twice-cooked, decent chippies with two dips: Iskender (a sweet tomato and red pepper sauce) and cheeesy fondue. It’s nice to see the sauce on the side so you don’t end up with soggy chips. I’m fed up of soggy chips!

For pud, there’s just one option; a soft cake drenched in stewed fruit. It’s served cold with a fat quenelle of cream. It acts as a palate cleanser for all that food before which is just what you need.

Maison Bab is a charming spot. Service is warm and friendly, the space is sexy and the food, which could have been bought-in for ease, is lovingly homemade. It’s affordable too with all kebabs being under tenner. All that effort is certainly worth it.

Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant