Kym’s, Bloomberg Arcade

The much loved A.Wong, now Michelin-starred, has just got itself a sister restaurant, over in Bloomberg Arcade. It joins a whole host of brilliant spots to eat: Koya, Brigadiers, Homeslice and the best burger in London: Bleecker.

Kym’s specialises in Chinese roast meats and is backed by Chris Miller of White Rabbit Fund. You may recognise that chap from BBC Two’s Million Pound Menu.

It’s a nice looking place. A fake cherry blossom tree attacks you as you take the stairs to the toilet but looks very pretty. Wherever you sit you can see the open kitchen and cooked meats hanging in a cabinet.

You must start your meal with the rice cracker (£3), possibly the world’s largest, but you’d have to confirm with Guinness World Records. It comes with a mound of crispy seaweed in the middle. It’s bloody lush.

Silken tofu, 100 year old egg and garlic soy (£7) also comes highly recommended. In fact, it all does. It’s all delicious. The only thing that isn’t quite so is a basket of wild mushroom steamed buns (£8). They’re not bad, just not as astoundingly good as everything else.

Sichuanese spiced aubergines (£6) are all soggy/sticky/sweet/squishy. Dunk that rice cracker into the thick sauce that remains. Spring rolls (£4) are crisp fried and wrapped in more crispy bits for added texture.

Crispy duck and pancakes (£18) is a carve-it-yourself jobby. It comes with sharp plum instead of cucumber. I don’t miss the cucumber. ‘Three Treasures’ (£20) is a small mound of crispy pork belly, soy chicken and Iberico pork char sui. Meaty perfection.

Pork and shrimp ‘bao bao’ (£12) is so eggy it could be brunch and so sweet it could be pudding. But those little dumplings are so full of heart warming flavour that it doesn’t matter.

The food at Kym’s is all about flavour, flavour, flavour. It doesn’t shy away from all the good things in the world: salt, sugar, meat and fat. That’s the kinda food I love.

Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant