Emile, Shoreditch

Emile won’t be around for long; if you fancy visiting this restaurant from Nick Gibson and Damian Clisby you’ve got just under 6 months. It’s a popup taking over the former Rok Shoreditch site and it’s the first time this illustrious pair have teamed up.

Damian Clisby, formerly exec chef for Petersham Nurseries both in Richmond and Covent Garden, is serving dishes like handmade pappardelle with chanterelle mushrooms (£15) and Paddock Farm pork chop with cavolo nero (£23). It’s simple cooking but just the sort of stuff you want to eat: Lincolnshire poacher croquettes (£7) and Pink Fir potatoes with anchovies (£8.50) are two must order nibbles.

N1 dwellers and good pub lovers will know Nick Gibson as landlord at the Drapers Arms in Islington. “Short, interesting and competitively priced” is what he’s going for on the wine list. We start with an expertly made Martini (in an iced glass, naturally) moving on to L’aimé Chai from Côtes de Duras in France. Best of all: Flotsam and Jetsam stalwart Cinsault which is dry farmed using old bushvines. “Interesting” this stuff certainly is.

With a cosy wine bar vibe, helped along by a tiny and open kitchen, Emile is the dream spot to have your supper. It’s a class operation from a pair who seemingly know how to run a bloody good restaurant.

Would we go back? Yes

We dined as guests of the restaurant