Wild Honey, St James

As we sit in Anthony Demetre’s Wild Honey in the Sofitel St James hotel I can’t help but feel relaxed. It’s a large, bright and cheery space, modern art fills the walls, giant chandeliers fill the ceiling. Service is upbeat and charming.

The menu makes you hungry. How about classic bouillabaisse Marseille style? Or classic farmhouse terrine? Or a soup made from partridge, pheasant, woodcock and foie gras (£9)? It’s as rich as it is divine.

Burrata with william pears, fresh walnuts and dukkah spice (£14) is made by La Latteria over in Park Royal, West London. They make the best burrata I’ve ever tasted (sorry Italians!) and that’s because it’s so fresh. This stuff is the nuts.

Sourcing the finest produce carries over to mains. Line Caught English seabaass (£35) and roast cod with Shetland Isle mussels (£28) are exquisite. The fish, day boat fish of course, has a delicate, milky texture.

Gratin of Winter greens (£7) is a creamy, gooey delight. It’s the perfect antidote to the miserable weather; pure comfort-cuddle food.

Desserts are Demetre’s speciality. Classic English custard tart (£9) wobbles in a similar fashion to my belly after I’ve finished it. Clementine sorbet (£9) is light, fresh and tastes of the fruit and nothing else. Perfectly balanced sweetness.

Star of the show is two quenelles of wild honey ice cream (£11) with a wedge of fresh honeycomb served tableside. A must order. With coffee comes salted caramel truffle-topped canele. A more perfect end to a meal you’ll struggle to find.

Wild Honey is a proper restaurant serving proper food, one where the cooking is old-school yet not old-fashioned. Anywhere that puts foie gras in a soup gets a thumbs up from me.

Would we go back? Yes

We dined as guests of the restaurant