Head chef at The Grill at The Dorchester, Tom Booton, is a sprightly 26 years old. He’s the youngest head chef in London. I think? Surely. He’s ex-Alyn Williams at The Westbury, which was certainly a brilliant restaurant before the fall out.

The handsome space, all low lighting and gold galore, features a dessert bar where guests can stuff their faces on puds like banoffee tart and a fabulous take on a Double Decker, which is as chewy as it is heavenly.

It’s not just my sweet tooth that gets excited during dinner. Beef tartare is topped with sliced radish, each disc exactly the same size, placed with such precision it’s almost a shame to tuck in. Almost.

Prawn scotch egg sits in a lake of warm tartare sauce so good you could drink the stuff. Glazed veal sweetbread is crisp and fatty, allowing the accompanying lentils the chance to balance the richness. This is hearty cooking and I’m rather enjoying it.

Stars of the show are a lobster thermidor tart (£20 supplement) and a beef wellington for two (£40 supplement – the menu is a not-unreasonable £60 for 3 courses or 4 for £75). Both showcase perfect pastry. The former; insanely crumbly. The latter; buttery and flakey.

They bring energy and excitement, something The Grill at The Dorchester has in abundance.

Would we go back? Yes

Dorchestercollection.com
We dined as guests of the restaurant