Fischer’s is the latest offering from restaurateurs Corbin and King – the pair behind the Wolseley, Delaunay, Brasserie Zedel and Colbert. It’s based on Marylebone High Street on the former site of Cotidie; a dire Italian restaurant where I had one of the worst meals of my life.
What a transformation; it’s a really beautiful restaurant – like a glamorous Austrian cafe in a railway station. The atmosphere felt lively and buzzy yet not manic or out of control which was impressive seeing how busy the place was; there was a constant flow of people coming and going throughout our entire visit.
The Austrian theme doesn’t end with the decor; the menu is littered with ‘Zwielbelrostbraten’ here and ‘ÃœberstÃ¼rtzer’ there. To start I opted for ‘KÃ¤sespÃ¤ztle with bacon’ (Â£6.25) which was a type of egg noodle/dumpling similar to pasta, in a carbonara sauce – it was comfort food in its purest form.
The ‘beef broth with cheese dumplings’ (Â£6.95) had the sort of intense beefy flavour that made me want to pick up the bowl and lick it clean – it was really impressive. The cheese dumplings were well made, not stodgy, and actually tasted of their said flavouring which isn’t always the case. The ‘beetroot cured salmon’ (Â£9) was vibrantly purple in colour and its quality was sublime. With the accompanying horseradish cream and Nordic bread it made for a perfect mouthful.
For main, the ‘WÃ¼rstchen’, or sausages (you had the choice of two with potato salad, Sauerkraut and caramelised onions) seemed great value at eleven quid. My gentleman companion went for the ‘NÃ¼rnberger’ and ‘KÃ¤sekrainer’, the latter being a real highlight as it was stuffed with emmental cheese – I do love a cheesy sausage! There was a choice of three great mustards too which varied in eye watering strengths – German mustard has got to be the best around.
I couldn’t resist ordering the Wiener Schnitzel (Â£19.95) which was served with a ‘Preiselbeeren compote’ – I haven’t heard of it either – which provided a perfectly sharp antidote for the richness of the veal. The Schnitzel was a beautiful blanket of crisp breadcrumbed meat atop a thick gravy which was absolutely delicious.
The ‘grilled spatchcock chicken’ (Â£15.50) was served with a herby garlic and tarragon concoction and although the flavour was great, the dish lacked one extra element to lift it.
Sides were all great; the medium cut chips (Â£4) changed my mind about fat chips as they were so bloody tasty – I always find fat chips a bit too ‘potatoey’ but not here. The buttery mash (Â£4.25) was exactly that and the pickled cucumber salad (Â£4) shall remain one of my Mum’s favourite side dishes of all time.
For dessert, the ‘Scheiterhaufen’ (Â£6.25), which we only ordered so we could say ‘Scheiterhaufen’, was a joyous bread and butter pudding filled with apple, topped with soft meringue peaks and drenched in a calvados anglaise – it tasted every bit as delicious as it sounds.
The ‘Wien ice cream coupe’ (Â£5.95) was a filling blend of coffee and vanilla ice cream topped with crunchy meringues, whipped cream and an espresso anglaise – it was the perfect pud for sharing.
Finally, the ‘chocolate and Grand Marnier Dobos’ (Â£4.25) was proof that whoever’s running the pastry section really knows what they’re doing. There were layers upon layers of creamy, yet not sickly, chocolate and sponge which all had a subtle flavour of boozy orange which is never a bad thing.
I knew I was going to enjoy Fischer’s as soon as I walked in the door – a feeling which I get at the other Corbin and King restaurants too. They just get it all so right; the look of the dining room, the tasty food, the friendly staff – even the toilets are beautiful. It’s worth a trip for that cheesy sausage alone.