Mission, Bethnal Green

Mission

Mission is a new restaurant in Bethnal Green by the husband and wife team who created the ever popular bar and toastie haunt Sager + Wilde.

It’s based in a large railway arch but the large palm tree (is it a palm tree?) in the middle of the dining room turned it from something quite plain and ordinary to something a little more fun. We were seated against the large glass wall which shook ferociously every time someone opened the door which wasn’t ideal.

Outside

Inside

To start, the ox heart tartare (£7.50) was a tad disappointing as the heart was really chewy. The accompanying toasted bread was so hard and crunchy that it actually hurt my mouth chewing it. I know it sounds so fussy but these things are important if you want to make an enjoyable plate of food.

Heart tartare

Squash, hazelnut, kale and ricotta (£7.50) was a far more successful dish; it was the sort of salad that even on a cold day you’d want to munch on for hours. The duck pappardelle (£12) has become something of a signature dish and I can see why as the flavour was superb and the pasta was expertly made. I found the sauce a bit thin though.

Squash

Duck pappardelle

For main, they’d run out of the lamb shoulder for three to share (£38) once we ordered it which was annoying. The ox cheek, carrots and coco de pajmpol beans (£17) was nice big chunk of meat and it was sitting in a beautifully rich sauce. The breasts of the partridge with sweetcorn and giroles (£17) were cooked perfectly but the legs were quite dry and chewy.

Ox cheek

Partridge

Grilled onglet, purple sprouting broccoli & chili (£16) was an odd one; the onglet was lovely but it came swimming in soy sauce which I wasn’t expecting. It was fine but I don’t think I would have ordered it if I’d known.

Onglet

A side of garlic & rosemary potatoes (£3.50) were pungently garlicky which was great – they were crispy and really salty which made them totally moreish. The cauliflower cheese (£5) was the cheesiest I’ve come across – a definite must order.

Sides

I didn’t hate Mission but for the price I was hoping for a little more perfection with the food – the dishes all sounded like the sort of grub I love to eat but they didn’t quite deliver. Service was charming; we were served by the owner who was so sweet and lovely which is always a good thing. I’m just not sure I’d go back for that food though.

6/10

Mission Wine Bar and Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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