I loved the original Pitt Cue Co in Soho. The only problem was the wait for a table – it was epic. And even if you got there bang on opening time they still didn’t serve food until half an hour later so you had to wait in the mosh pit of a bar. So the news that it was moving to a far bigger space in Devonshire Square, near Liverpool Street, was good news indeed.

It feels grown up now. There’s an open kitchen with a grill to end all grills on display. There’s an open bar where they brew their own beers. Comfortable chairs. Reservations. Good wine. It all really works.

We started with potato cakes (£3.50). Thin layers of crispy potato, sandwiched together and cut into strips; pure heaven. They even give the confit potatoes at The Quality Chop House a run for their moolar.

We went for the two sausages (love a good sausage me); cep and black garlic (£6.50) and magalitza and eel (£6.50). Both were large circles of sausage with oodles of piggy flavour.

The grilled lamb heart (£4.50) is a must. Thinly sliced and totally not as offaly overbearing as you might think. Dripping bread (£6) had a treacly taste and the fact the outside was slathered in dripping and covered in salt, made it more than just a bit of bread.

Cured and smoked jowl (£12.50), the pig’s cheek, was firm in texture with a thick layer of crisp fat on top. Pork and fat will always win me over. The rump cap (£15.50), a fattier piece of the cow’s rump, was ruby red rare yet tender as anything. An accompanying ‘trencher’, a piece of bread marinated in dripping, was insane(ly good). Sides of mushroom and bone marrow mash and a lone segment of grilled hispi cabbage (£5 each) were great accompaniments.

We shared the chocolate mousse and pear (£5) for pud. Nutty, biscuity, sweet, salty and anything but stodgy. Simple things are sometimes the best.

All in all Pitt Cue seems to have identified its weaknesses from the old place and tweaked them to make their new restaurant really rather good. Service remains sweet and friendly and above all the staff have a keen interest in what they’re serving. If you like your meat, this one’s a must.

5/5