This Corbin & King restaurant inside their first hotel, The Beaumont, has a menu filled with things you actually want to eat, which can be a rarity these days, and the service is always so warm and welcoming. It’s a fine example of a bloody good restaurant.
We start with a Martini seated in a dark and cosy booth in the bar. Once in the dining room, weâ€™re taken to another booth – I do love a booth me. Hundreds of framed portraits line the walls and the lack of windows makes you forget about the outside world.
While perusing the menu we snack on tempura shrimp (Â£9.25) which have the balance of bouncy, fresh prawn and crisp, grease-free batter. A punchy soy sauce is a great little dunker.
The best thing about the menu is you can start with half a dozen Carlingford oysters for Â£18, then have an Â£8.25 grilled cheese sandwich for your main. The toastie has an oily yet crunchy fried bread exterior which goes perfectly with a side of gem heart salad (Â£4.50) doused in a tangy vinaigrette dressing.
The Colony Club Salad (Â£11), the best salad youâ€™ll find in London, has cubed avocado, bacon, cheese, cucumber, chicken and tomato lined up in an OCD fashion. Give it all a mix and every mouthful is perfectly balanced, tasting both healthy and naughty.
The fried chicken burger (Â£16) doesnâ€™t quite hit the dizzying heights of Chik â€™nâ€™ Sours, the bun is a touch dry, but the chicken is moist and on the whole itâ€™s an enjoyable eat. Fries are reassuringly crisp and salty (youâ€™ll never had a bad chip in a Corbin and King restaurant) and a side of macaroni cheese (Â£8) is gooey, cheesy and rich.
We finish with a little table side theatre; pistachio and cherry Baked Alaska which is flambÃ©ed with kirsch (Â£10.50). The flame reaches quite a height yet our waiter seems un-flummoxed, he’s clearly done this before. The heady mix of booze, crisp meringue and ice cream is a most pleasant one.
Birthdays, wedding nights, a quick bite to eat on a Tuesday – The Colony Grill Room is one of those restaurants we always find ourselves returning to. And for good reason.
Would we go back? Yes