It’s an exciting setup at Evelyn’s Table, the eleven-seat kitchen bar in the basement of The Blue Posts pub in between Soho and Leicester Square. You’d have no idea it was there.
It was always going to be good though as the owners, Assaf Granit and ZoÃ« and Layo Paskin, who also have The Palomar, The Barbary, Jacob and the Angel and now Coal Office inside the new Tom Dixon head office, really know what they’re doing.
The best bit of Evelyn’s Table is that although it feels exclusive and “special occasion”, there’s no cripplingly expensive set tasting menu. You can order as much or as little from the seafood-focussed menu.
Vitello tonnato with rocket mayonnaise and kohlrabi (Â£13) is pretty special. Kohlrabi, often so dull, is bought alive by that punchy rocket mayo. Another winner is simplicity at its best: cured monkfish, Sicilian tomatoes, avocado and coriander oil (Â£13.50). Stunning too.
From the ‘specials’ which are first presented on a tray, raw, the hake cheeks (Â£8) are
a standout dish. You have to prize the flesh from the bone which blends soft fish with charred crispy bits. Lush.
Tagliatelle with girolles, chilli and parmesan (Â£13) is a cracking plate of pasta. I knew it would be as I’d eaten spaghetti cacio e pepe in the pub upstairs and that was better than Padella.
Looe Market day boat fish sees a whole mackerel (Â£18), grilled to perfection, served with samphire and grapefruit to cut through the oiliness of that gorgeous fish. You can taste the freshness.
Lemon sole (Â£25) is another expertly cooked piece of fish. It comes in a puddle of buttery sauce with more girolles and heaps of sweet corn. Possibly too much sweet corn as it overpowers the delicate fish.
For pud, the lemon tart (Â£7) is a masterpiece. Light as anything, super zesty, a thin sugary topping and a pastry casing so buttery and crumbly you’ll want to marry it.
Evelyn’s Table is a sexy and secluded spot which gets it right. The potential for it to be pretentious and stuffy is high but with a friendly team in place and some cracking cooking this place ticks all the boxes.
Would we go back? Yes
We dined as guests of the restaurant